Monday, February 28, 2011

Istanbul, Turkey

As some of you may know, my original plans for this past weekend involved an intensive trip to Marrakech, Morocco. However, recent developments turned attention to North Africa, where protests staged turned violent and fatal for some. Many of the protesters are directing requests toward the king to relinquish some of his powers and dismiss the current government. These protests were not expected to escalate but this is exactly what happened. Consequently, Lorenzo de’Medici (the institution I study at here in Florence), held a mandatory meeting to inform us they will not be permitting us to travel to Morocco for our weekend excursion. This decision was made out of safety concerns for our well-being. Although I was disappointed, I understand completely the possible severity of the situation I would be in. On the bright side, the advisors at the school exclaimed they would now be paying for us to travel to Istanbul, Turkey instead, for the weekend! This change in plans stunned me because I never imagined traveling to Turkey, but I went in to the situation with excitement and an open mind.
Fortune Telling with Turkish Coffee
Fortune Telling with Turkish Coffee
            Undoubtedly, Turkey offers a wealth of destination varieties to travelers, especially when visiting the famous city of Istanbul. After a long night of flying, our group arrived at our hostel around 2AM and went directly to sleep. In the morning a traditional Turkish breakfast was served consisting of bread, cucumber, tomato, olives, hard boiled eggs, jam, tea and coffee. We then set off on our first walking tour. The first day involved sightseeing throughout the New City, north of Taksim Square. This area includes much of the business center and has a modern feel to it. While traversing through the streets we made a stop for lunch where we all ate large flour tortillas stuffed with meats, vegetables, and cheeses. These were hand made by two women who rolled out the fresh dough for the tortilla. Some of my friends accompanied their meals with Ayran: a common drink made of yoghurt and water, with a bit of salt added. It is one the most popular drinks in Turkey. Although I tried a small sip, this drink tasted extremely sour to me. After a wonderful meal we went next door to a vendor selling Lokum: otherwise known as Turkish Delight. This is a gummy confection, which include premium varieties consisting largely of chopped dates, pistachios, and hazelnuts. The cheapest are mostly gel textured, generally flavored with rosewater, lemon, and other fruits. Needless to say they were delicious!
Turkish Delight
            After a full meal we headed towards a Turkish fortuneteller shop. Our specific experience involved drinking Turkish coffee followed by some fortune telling. Turkish coffee differs from percolator and instant varieties. Turkish coffee is prepared in tiny pots, which can be used to make two cups of coffee at each shot. How it is unique is because it allows your fortune to be told by looking at the cup. This custom of coffee cup reading is at least as old as Turkish coffee itself. Once you have finished drinking your cup, the saucer is placed on top of the cup, and a wish is made. When the coffee cup is cool enough, someone opens the cup and starts interpreting the shapes for divination. I for one am not afraid of fortune tellers, yet I tend not to believe in these types of “readings”. However, after experiencing what the woman had to say to me regarding my past, specifics about my family, and touching upon some of the major concerns and questions I have about life – I was truly moved for a while after the ritual.
View from Galata Tower
Doner Kebab
            Towards the end of the day we ventured over to Galata, which is north across a little bridge. The Galata Tower is a high, cone-capped cylinder that dominates the skyline and offers panoramic views of the city from on top. Interestingly enough, our native tour guide decided to bring us to the speedy modern “sea bus” catamarans – or traditional ferryboats. These offer convenient travel down and across the Bosphorus connecting Istanbul on the European shore with Turkey on the Asian side. In other words, I went to Asia! We only spent about an hour there (enough time to grab a Turkish Efes beer!), but the experience was great. After catching a ferry back over we went to dinner at a traditional Turkish kebab place, where we all dined on Doner Kebabs.
Spice Market
            The next morning the focus of our walking tour included many mosques and markets. Of the many mosques we were able to see, the Blue Mosque was by far my favorite. The cascading domes and six minarets of the Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque) dominate the skyline of Istanbul. Inside, the high ceiling is lined with blue tiles that give the mosque its popular name. Upon entrance into the mosque the girls on my tour were required to wear head scarves for traditional reasons, and because it is in keeping with the commandments of Allah. The elegance and majesty of these mosques astounded me. I enjoyed experiencing the culture by removing my shoes and draping a scarf around my head before I entered each mosque. Although I did not get a chance to tour inside the Hagia Sophia, the exterior of the great architectural beauty allowed me to appreciate the once church/mosque and now museum.
Hagia Sophia
Mosque
            Next we made our way towards the Grand Bazaar and spice market. The covered bazaar is a large city block with internal streets, all covered with a high vaulted ceiling and lined with huge numbers of colorful shops. Many of the venders sell products such as leatherware, spices, tea, carpets, cloth, lamps, and souvenirs of all kinds. The Grand Bazaar is one the largest and oldest covered markets in the world with more than 58 streets and over 4,000 shops. This was an exciting shopping experience and I was thankful not to get lost! The Spice Bazaar was also a busy place with mounds of spices lining the sidewalks where you could also find dried fruits and nuts. Towards the end of the day our guide brought us to a pastry shop and we were able to sample plates of boklava – my sweet tooth definitely got the best of me here!
Inside Mosque
            After our walking tour ended, my two girlfriends and I hurried off towards the Cemberlitas Hamami – Historical Turkish Bath. Istanbul is known for its Turkish baths, which is a variant of a steam bath or sauna, distinguished by a focus on water as opposed to steam. The method of cleansing the body and relaxation has been a popular social event for many Turkish residents. Not everyone is keen for the real Turkish Bath experience, but I was excited to experience it to the fullest! After changing, we were taken to a warm, humid room with a raised stone platform in the center, surrounded by bathing alcoves, all decorated in pretty colored tiles. We were able to lay on the platform, which is heated, and we inevitably worked up a sweat (it is like a sauna). Soon after, one of the women who worked there came over and used a coarse mitt to scrub me cleaner than I have ever been before. She used a lacy cloth and blows through it to create bubbles so I became covered from head to toe with soapy foam. Next I was doused in warm water again and she proceeded to wash my hair. After my 15-minute scrub/massage my friends and I were able to enjoy the heated stone as well as the mini pools of hot water located in the alcoves of the room.
            For dinner our guide brought us to a residential area where we actually went to a Turkish family’s home and they cooked a meal for our group. The family was extremely gracious, despite not being able to speak a word of English. They welcomed our group of twelve students into their home where they proceeded to serve us lentil soup with bread, followed by rice and chicken with salad, finishing it off with a glass of tea. It was an extremely humbling experience to be able to spend time with a local family. This family in particular had just welcomed a baby girl (2 months old) into the world and I was even able to hold her before the start of dinner!
            My travel experience to Istanbul, Turkey was not like any other. The strong pride in culture and tradition was humbling and each and every experience I had was more incredible than the last. I would recommend this trip to anyone I know, and I would do it all over again in a heartbeat. 


















Turkish Bath!






Turkish Delight

Baklava Tasting


Dinner with Turkish family


Monday, February 21, 2011

Rome, Italy

View from Castel Saint'Angelo

On the Spanish Steps
Spanish Steps

ROMA! With every trip I take, I fall more and more in love with all that Italy has to offer. Early Friday morning we met our group and traveled via coach bus to Rome. Upon arrival we immediately set off on a walking tour. With the help of a guide, we walked down the large cobble stoned streets soaking up the warmth of the 60-degree weather. The tour began with a trip through the historical center. While wandering down the main streets we came upon Piazza di Spagna – the famous Spanish Steps. Climbing the stairs and reaching the top offers a birds eye view of the bustling city center of Rome. I popped into the church of Trinita dei Monti that sits atop the hill and witnessed a few moments of a communion ceremony! After leaving the busy streets crowded with cars and people we headed towards the Pantheon. Interestingly we were told that a layer of scaffolding that once covered the outside of the Pantheon had just recently been removed (we were lucky to be able to take photos not tainted by the construction!). This building was commissioned as a temple to all gods of Ancient Rome and was later rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian. The name, Pantheon which means “to every god”, is speculated to come from the many statues of gods placed around the building, or from the resemblance of the dome to the heavens. The building is circular with three ranks of huge granite columns and a concrete dome. The interior is covered with decorative marble facing and the exterior by stone and stucco. After grabbing a cone of gelato, we sat on the steps in the square in front of the Pantheon and enjoyed people watching and listening to the street performers.
            Next stop – Trevi Fountain! This area was bursting with activity and crowds of eager tourists. The Fontana di Trevi or Trevi Fountain is the most famous and arguably the most beautiful fountain in all of Rome. The central figure of the fountain is Neptune, god of the sea. Of course my roommates and I took part in the typical action of tossing a coin into the fountain! Legend has it you will return to Rome if you throw a coin into the water (I hope I am lucky enough to come back one day!). Following the Trevi Fountain visit, we went to Piazza Navona, a large and lively square featuring three magnificent fountains and the baroque church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. We sat near a beautiful flowing fountain just to enjoy the warmth of the sun’s rays and snap some photos. The Piazza Navona is situated in the historic center of Rome, west of the Pantheon. It is one of Rome’s liveliest squares, with many outdoor cafes and restaurants in the neighborhood. Interestingly, the square is built on the former Domitian’s stadium, built by emperor Domitian. Hence why the piazza is in a long, oval shape.
            Later on that night I was able to meet up with a large group of friends that I study with back at UVM. We all went to dinner at a quaint little restaurant where large amounts of wine, pasta, and bread were consumed. It was great to catch up with my friends and enjoy a night in Rome together.
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
            
The next morning we grabbed some breakfast at the hotel and headed off to a guided visit of Castel Saint’Angelo. The Castel is an imposing building on the right bank of the Tiber River and has had a turbulent history. During its many years of existence, the building functioned first as a mausoleum, then became part of the city wall and later turned into a fortress before it functioned as a papal residence and finally as a barracks and military prison. Currently, it serves as a national museum. The interior of the fortress is decorated with many frescoes and a spiral corridor leading down to the original part of the mausoleum. At the top of the fortress you can look out over the panoramic terrace and take in the breathtaking view of the city. The last part of the guided tour ended with a trip to St. Peters Basilica. St. Peter’s Basilica is a major basilica in Vatican City, an enclave of Rome. St. Peter’s Sqaure (Piazza San Pietro) was designed by Bernini and built between 1656 and 1667. The basilica itself is the burial site of its namesake Saint Peter. In the square, there are two fountains and a tall obelisk stands in the center. The building in particular is truly impressive. The largest church in the world, it has a large dome and an interior, which includes 45 altars decorated by many famous artists. Some of the most important works in the church are the Pieta by Michelangelo, the papal altar by Bernini, and the Monument to the Stuarts by Canova. Having the opportunity to see the magnificent church and actually visit one of the holiest Catholic sites was truly an experience I will never forget.
Borghese Gardens
            After the amazing time spent in St. Peters Church a few of my friends and I headed towards the Borghese Gardens to relax and wander through the grounds. Stretching from above Piazza del Popolo to the top of Via Veneto, Villa Borghese remains a green and pleasant space to escape from the bustling city of Rome. There are museums, a theatre, a park, a lake, rollerblade space as well as numerous fountains dotted throughout. Villa Borghese remains one of Rome’s abiding pleasures for Romans and visitors alike. The peace, graceful trees, and panoramic views of the city made it a perfect spot for a relaxing afternoon.
            On Sunday morning, prior to departure, we hoped a tram and headed over to Porta Portese Sunday Market. Porta Portese is one of the largest most diverse and popular flea-markets in Europe. The vendors sell all imaginable merchandise, including antiques, second hand clothes, books, magazines, decorative items and food products. Although I did not purchase anything, it was nice to explore and search for possible hidden treasures. At noontime, we hoped on the buses and participated in a private bus tour of Piazza Venezia, Fori Imperiali, Via Cavour, Piazza Repubblica, Villa Borghese, and Circo Massimo. Although it was difficult to take photos from the inside of the bus, the tour guide proved informational and intriguing. After such a busy weekend it was nice to sit in the comfort of a bus while touring around the large city. The bus tour dropped us off to see our last and final attraction before heading back home to Florence – the Colosseum. We were not only able to tour around the outside of the Colosseum but explore the inside as well. This monumental structure has fallen into ruins, but even today it is an imposing and beautiful sight. Emperors used the Colosseum to entertain the public with free games. Those games were a symbol of prestige and power and they were held for a whole day or even several days in a row. They usually started with comical acts and displays of exotic animals and ended with fights to the death between gladiators. Despite being partially ruined because of damage caused by devastating earthquakes, the Colosseum is an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome.

Colosseum

Colosseum


Colosseum

Colosseum

In Borghese Gardens
St. Peter's Basilica

Outside St. Peter's Basilica

View from Castel Saint'Angelo

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter's Basilica

View from Castel Saint'Angelo

Inside Castel Saint'Angelo



Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona



Inside the Pantheon

Inside the Pantheon

Pantheon

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain
            The Eternal City offers visitors and residents magnificent ancient monuments, quaint piazzas, incredible museums and gardens, and mouth-watering cuisine. Rome is bursting with entertainment options and never-ending sources of both day and evening activities. After a busy weekend I slept the entire bus ride back home to Florence. Rome is a beautiful city and I hope to return someday soon!